Neigan Great Waterfall, also known as Hongyegu (Red Leaf Valley) Waterfall or Liuzinan Waterfall, is located on Datun Mountain. Visiting in the autumn, the surrounding leaves had only just begun turning a faint crimson; catching a truly spectacular fiery red display at this hidden sanctuary requires a formidable amount of luck.
On September 21, 2007, I arrived at Neigan Great Waterfall following heavy rains. While the water volume coursing through the falls and creek was impressive, it also resulted in multiple attacks by swarms of leeches. My companions and family members who hiked along all ended up with numerous leeches clinging to their bodies.
Though I hike this historic trail frequently, this was the very first time in my life I had been attacked by leeches—hardly something to celebrate, I imagine?
It is worth noting that the plunge pool below the waterfall has grown noticeably deeper. Given how rapidly these leeches multiply, there must be quite a few lurking in the water itself. Revolting.
On November 26, 2007, as late autumn set in, the water volume at Hongyegu Waterfall reached astonishing levels. The base of the waterfall, usually easy to approach, kept us at bay more than ten meters away. Although we tried wading upstream to get closer to the plunge pool, the late hour, immense torrents, and dropping temperatures ultimately turned us back.
Having started our ascent too late, we were forced to hike down in pitch darkness. At the stream crossings, the stepping stones we normally crossed upon were submerged knee-deep under surging rapids; we nearly got swept away by the swollen torrent. Such a formidable, awe-inspiring force of nature! On the hurried descent, one of my feet slipped off a cliff ledge while cramping, rain poured down endlessly, and one of our two flashlights gave out. Dressed only in a short-sleeved shirt, my body steamed like a walking locomotive. Against all that, slipping repeatedly along the muddy trail seemed almost trivial.
The Neiganzhai Historic Trail has become one of my most frequently visited routes, with over a dozen treks under my belt. A one-way trip now takes only about 40 to 50 minutes, making it an easy and relaxing path. Yet this particular trek stands out as the most battered, disheveled, yet invigorating outing I have ever had on this trail.
Original Articles: “Neiganzhai Historic Trail and Hongyegu Waterfall 2007.09.21”, “Neiganzhai Historic Trail and Hongyegu Waterfall 2007.11.26”
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