Lienchiang County Is Not Taiwan Province: Unveiling the Unique Charm and Culture of the Matsu Islands

Recently, I participated in a postcard lucky-draw event held in Matsu titled “Love Letters to Matsu.” To look up the event details, I typed “Lienchiang County” into the search bar. To my surprise, the search engine auto-suggested the query: “Is Lienchiang County part of Taiwan?”

Seeing that question caught me off guard. This is basic civic geography covered in elementary school textbooks! Yet so many people remain puzzled. It seems that some residents accustomed to life on Taiwan proper take their own island as the sole cultural center, forgetting the broader administrative tapestry of the Republic of China (ROC).

The answer is remarkably straightforward: Lienchiang County does not belong to Taiwan Province.

Administratively, Lienchiang County is a county governed under the ROC’s Fujian Province, situated across the Matsu archipelago. It stands distinctly apart from Taiwan Province in geography, administration, and historical culture.

The native inhabitants of Matsu predominantly speak Eastern Min (Matsu dialect / Fuzhou dialect). This is fundamentally distinct from the Southern Min (Hokkien / Taiwanese) spoken across the southern streets of Taiwan proper. While both share classical Sinitic roots, their linguistic structures and heritage stretch back far earlier than the four centuries of Han settlement on Taiwan main island.

Language, however, is merely the tip of the iceberg. The Matsu archipelago and Taiwan island diverge markedly in architectural heritage, maritime lifestyle, and culinary traditions. While urbanites on Taiwan might proudly champion oyster omelets or bubble tea, Matsu offers handcrafted fish noodles, coastal banquet platters, and plump steamed mussel broth infused with an oceanic purity that rivals any culinary tradition.

Geographically perched just off the coast of mainland Fujian, Matsu’s unique frontier setting forged an unmistakable character.

Once a frontline military fortress during the Cold War, the Matsu archipelago has transformed into a tranquil travel haven filled with dramatic seascapes and compelling historical narratives. The Beihai Tunnel on Nangan is one of Matsu’s most iconic sites. Carved entirely by hand out of solid granite during wartime to conceal naval supply boats, it now welcomes travelers paddling canoes through its cavernous waterways, where glistening reflections cast mystical patterns across rugged rock walls.

On Dongju, the historic Dongju Lighthouse stands proud atop windswept cliffs, having guided mariners across the East China Sea since the 19th century. At night, its beam meets the starry sky, creating a serene sanctuary far removed from urban commotion.

Matsu’s allure deepens in its villages.

Qinbi Village on Beigan is celebrated as the “Mediterranean of Matsu.” Traditional granite stone houses cascade gracefully along terraced hillsides overlooking the turquoise bay. These stone dwellings carry generations of seafaring memories; weathered wooden window lattices and mottled granite walls tell stories of fishing traditions intertwined with military garrison days.

Strolling through Qinbi, time slows down. You can sit outside a quiet cliffside café, sip a glass of aged Matsu Kaoliang liquor, gaze across the horizon where sea meets sky, and savor the tranquility of an unspoiled island outpost.

Further north on Dongyin, the Andong Tunnel and the dramatic sea cleft of Yixiantian (A Thread of Sky) reveal the raw power of nature. Dongyin’s signature aged liquor (Dongyin Lao Jiu) is renowned for its mellow, sea-breeze-kissed aroma, delivering an unforgettable sip.

And the food culture of Matsu is irresistible. Beyond fish noodles and fresh mussels, local hongzao (fermented red yeast rice) cuisine is a revelation—red-yeast fried chicken and braised eel offer rich, savory depths unique to Eastern Min culinary heritage. Matsu is also home to the legendary Tunnel 88 Kaoliang Liquor, naturally aged within abandoned military tunnels, boasting a smooth finish that commands deep respect from seasoned connoisseurs.

Reflecting on that search engine suggestion, the question “Is Lienchiang County part of Taiwan?” serves as a gentle reminder to look beyond conventional boundaries.

Matsu is far more than a scenic getaway; it is a living cross-section of history. It bore witness to the frontlines of global geopolitics and nurtured maritime communities with unyielding resilience. Every granite block, every crashing wave, and every bowl of fish noodles carries the living memory of Matsu. Set aside preconceived notions, step onto the stone pathways of Qinbi, and experience an archipelago whose soul is far richer than you could ever imagine.