3 Days in Hualien & Taitung | 4-Person Foodie Road Trip, Coastal Highways & Whale Watching

I still recall that summer right after graduating from college when, armed with rudimentary driving skills, I took the family’s beat-up jalopy on a solo road trip around the island of Taiwan Province, Republic of China. Aside from sporting an eccentric outfit, I hadn’t budgeted enough gas money and ended up having to leave my national ID card at a CPC gas station in Checheng while frantic phone calls were made to family to deposit emergency funds into my postal savings account.

I even booked a solo motel room in Tainan just to meet a girl I had a crush on, experiencing the curious thrill of checking into a motel alone for the first time. Though that maiden journey was fraught with misadventures, it sparked a lifelong ritual of driving around the island once or twice each year.

This time around, at the invitation of a female friend from my college days, I took a Friday off work and paired it with the weekend, setting out with her and two other female travel companions on a 3-day, 2-night expedition across Hualien and Taitung.

Hualien-Taitung Journey: Day One

By 7:30 AM, everyone was picked up and our car was cruising down the freeway toward Hualien. Because it was a weekday, traffic was delightfully sparse—precisely why I relish traveling outside of public holidays.

Thanks to our early start, before noon we were already standing by the shores of Qixingtan, munching on bread rolls specially brought along by A-Zhao. (Since none of my travel companions were culinary prodigies, store-bought snacks had to suffice; next time I go on a long journey, I must bring someone with culinary training to satisfy the palate.)

After enjoying our midday snack, we made our way toward our first night’s guesthouse: "Over the Wall Garden" (N23.87044, E121.59855).

The resident cat at Over the Wall Garden.

Arriving at Over the Wall Garden and dropping off our luggage, we relaxed to take in the ocean breeze and played around on the guesthouse hammocks before hitting Provincial Highway 11 southbound.

Passing Niushan and following Highway 11 to connect with Highway 9, our lengthy detour had one primary objective: hunting down the famed "Man-Mei Braised Pork Trotters" (N23.71341, E121.41955), strongly recommended by Xiao-Hong. After a brief bout of getting lost, we finally secured the savory braised trotters, much to the sheer delight of the three girls.

Man-Mei Braised Pork Trotters.

Afterwards, we swung by the Hualien Sugar Factory for ice cream before continuing toward Liyutan Lake, where water dances and indigenous cultural performances were being staged. Unfortunately, the skies opened up in a downpour, soaking the stone seating steps. Although I unpacked folding camp chairs from the trunk, the rain was relentless, washing away our enthusiasm. We diverted to our next destination: the Nanbin Night Market. Sadly, the heavy rainfall kept most vendors away, leaving little trace of its usual bustling atmosphere.

We picked up some street eats at the market to bring back to the guesthouse. To my pleasant surprise, the clever girls had already asked the guesthouse proprietor for steamed white rice in advance. Savory braised trotters over hot rice—superb! The only missing piece was cold beer.

Braised trotters paired with steamed rice at the guesthouse.

Satiated and content, the four of us lounged across sofas and rustic timber benches. With no TV in the guesthouse, we showered and tucked in early, making plans to rise at dawn for the sunrise.

Resident geese at Over the Wall Garden.

Hualien-Taitung Journey: Day Two

I woke early as usual; whenever I travel, I naturally fall asleep early and wake with the dawn. To my surprise, Bird Nest also stirred in a daze and noticed me slipping out. The two of us stepped outside hoping to catch the sunrise over the Pacific, while the other two remained fast asleep.

Early morning dawn light at Over the Wall Garden.

As anticipated yesterday, thick overcast skies meant no visible sunrise. After waiting a short while, we returned to catch some extra sleep. Around 9:00 AM, we savored an exquisite breakfast prepared by the hostess, played with the guesthouse’s friendly dog (A-Chou, who was once featured in a travel guidebook), cats, and geese, and by 10:00 AM were back on Provincial Highway 11 heading south. Today, we committed entirely to the coastal highway down into Taitung without cutting back to Highway 9.

The refined breakfast spread prepared by our guesthouse host.

Around noon, appetites kicking in, we spotted an indigenous elder grilling flying fish by the roadside (N23.48903, E121.50870). We pulled over and bought two whole fish; shared among the four of us, it was plenty, and the firm, smoky, perfectly seasoned fish meat hit the spot wonderfully!

While we stood by the roadside enjoying our fish, a local woman rode up on a scooter to order a flying fish as well. Chatting with her while she waited, we discovered she was actually the elder’s daughter.

As our conversation unfolded, she warmly invited us to attend a community farewell gathering being hosted that evening at Moon Cave (Yuedong) to see off visiting foreign artists. Sounding intriguing, we accepted enthusiastically before pressing onward south.

Four companions and eight feet captured on the Sanxiantai bridge.

Along the way, we crossed the Tropic of Cancer marker (N23.45154, E121.49640), Baxian Caves, and Sanxiantai. Snapping photos like proper Taipei tourists, we continued toward the sole culinary pilgrimage of our Taitung leg: Donghe Steamed Pork Buns.

View looking back toward mainland Taiwan from the Sanxiantai footbridge.

During my solo round-island drive two summers prior, I had eaten these Donghe buns, and they were truly remarkable. Sadly, revisiting them this time, that breathtaking homemade flavor had largely faded—swapped out for mass part-time labor and factory-scale production. Alas, another time-honored traditional shop falls prey to commercial scaling. With the original storefront slated to move into a generic modern multistory building, the authentic Donghe bun of my memories has ceased to exist.

The original historic storefront of Donghe Buns.

After finishing our buns, we transitioned back toward Highway 9 to check out another Tropic of Cancer marker (N23.46539, E121.35773) and cruised into Taitung City. Upon entering Taitung City, some roads struck us as absurdly wide—eight-lane avenues where each lane could easily fit two vehicles abreast. Yet other corridors were ridiculously narrow two-lane bottlenecks stretching on forever, almost giving the impression that visitors are welcomed in but forbidden from ever leaving. Slow-moving traffic crept between countless traffic lights and speed cameras—truly quirky urban planning.

Leaving Taitung City and reconnecting with Highway 9, glorious sunny vistas took over, completely banishing the dust of city life. Except for the car’s sound system playing unfamiliar aboriginal tunes that we couldn’t decipher (and a ban on melancholy music), my spirits were soaring. We even detoured to Dayu for a geocaching hunt (Geocaching: TA-YU, N23.37897, E121.32603). The cache’s actual hiding spot differed slightly from the owner’s hint, suggesting someone had tampered with it. Sure enough, the container lid was loose with rainwater pooled inside. After tidying it up and taking a few photos, I secured it in a safer nearby spot.

The geocache discovered hidden at Dayu, Taitung.

With the cache restored, dusk was falling, and we set off for Moon Cave. Passing through Wuhe, we spotted the Tropic of Cancer monument, paused for photos and logged the GPS coordinates before moving on.

Naturally, we could not bypass the famous dairy desserts at Ruisui Ranch. Spotting the turnoff sign, we zipped in to indulge before taking the Ruigang scenic byway to connect back to Coastal Highway 11. On the winding mountain pass, a black Mazda 3 overtook us. For reasons unknown, being passed sparked an irrational streak in me (partly because it was the identical model driven by a friend). I switched off the AC, rolled down all windows, cut the music, and tailed him closely. He accelerated, but couldn’t shake me off. I had no intention of overtaking; in my philosophy, the apex of driving is not reckless passing, but staying locked firmly on their tail without losing a beat. Eventually, he peeled off into a private enclave, allowing me to resume a leisurely cruise. The drive to Rainbow Bridge took about thirty minutes, and we pressed on to Moon Cave.

Crepuscular rays (God rays) filtering through clouds during the drive.

Arriving at Moon Cave, we were initially bewildered. There was not a soul around, nor even a stray dog; with car headlights off, pitch-black darkness surrounded us. Someone noticed faint voices coming from the cliff base below. Armed with flashlights, we sought the entrance and encountered a local on the roadway who guided us down. To our astonishment, a bustling crowd filled the natural amphitheater! People sat informally on the ground. Because the grass was damp, our crew quietly slipped into chairs behind the foreign artists. We eyed the buffet spread wondering if we could sneak a bite, but maintained our manners.

Shortly after, the program commenced: roaring bonfires, multi-part choral harmonies, traditional tribal dances, and ancient lore passed down through song. Each performance transitioned seamlessly into the next, culminating in everyone linking hands in an immense dancing circle around the fire. I even noticed the morning’s flying fish elder dancing with wild abandon, easily matching the stamina of youngsters! They offered bowls of local rice wine; since I was designated driver, I took a symbolic sip while my companions gladly polished off the rest. Though small, the sip brought a warm flush on the summer night. As festivities wound down, a foreign woman with a camera made her way through the crowd, smiled warmly at me, and snapped a candid photo before I could react.

Tribal bonfire and traditional dancing at the community celebration.

Before leaving, we popped into an open bar area to pick up a business card. The woman behind the bar was striking, though more mature than my usual preference for cute types. Striking up a chat, it turned out she was another daughter of the flying fish vendor, and the younger sister of the lady who invited us that morning! Then a man walked in—one of the evening’s MCs. To our disbelief, he was the bar woman’s brother, the morning lady’s brother, and the elder’s son! What an intricately connected tribal family network! He warmly invited us to an upcoming performance in Bali, Tamsui, the following week. (I couldn’t make it, though I’m not sure if my companions went.)

Leaving Moon Cave, we sped along Highway 11 toward our night’s accommodation: "Primitive Space" (N24.00483, E121.63516). Despite GPS navigation, newly built roads threw off our bearings, and the proprietor kindly came out to guide us in. My first impression upon arriving was astonishing: it resembled an ancient Japanese riverside settlement lined with historic wooden shanties, complete with traditional signs for sake and blowfish.

Entrance to the historic Primitive Space guesthouse.

The owner led us to a rear converted storehouse where we were booked on the second floor. The warehouse was packed with historic curiosities collected from across the island—traditional eight-poster beds, vintage bicycles, and rustic memorabilia. The owner explained his dream of turning the estate into a folk heritage museum. His ambition following retirement from civil service was commendable (even if pulling it off seemed like a formidable challenge).

Stepping onto the second floor felt like entering a scene from the early 20th century. The entire floor was ours—an enormous traditional tatami loft that could comfortably sleep thirty or forty people, equipped with four washrooms featuring classic squat toilets. Excellent!

Traditional washroom with classic squat toilets and shower fixtures.

While this guesthouse had a TV, there was no air conditioning. Fortunately, ceiling and floor fans kept the cavernous wooden space pleasantly cool. After showers, we settled in for a deep sleep.

Second-floor tatami room at Primitive Space with luggage neatly tucked away.

Hualien-Taitung Journey: Day Three

Once again, I was the first to rise. Freshening up, I wandered the grounds with my camera.

The Mizuc cruiser bathed in crisp morning sunlight.

Early morning sunlight is always magical, particularly through the geometric lattices of heritage wooden architecture.

Warm, rhythmic morning illumination through traditional wooden framing.

Once my companions awoke, the proprietor treated us to a hearty breakfast. Energized and well-fed, we prepared to head out for our dolphin- and whale-watching excursion, booked the previous evening through our host.

Despite careful directions, we managed to take a wrong turn and drove the car directly alongside the whale-watching dock, earning curious inquiries from port staff.

As it turned out, passengers were supposed to assemble at the company headquarters first to be shuttled over together. What a missed opportunity—I was robbed of sharing a shuttle bus full of pretty beachgoers!

After the requisite life jacket safety briefing, we boarded the vessel, secured good vantage seats, and waited eagerly for departure.

Our dashing boat captain at the helm.

The weather could not have been more ideal: brilliant sunshine when needed, pleasant cloud cover when heat threatened to overwhelm, and light drizzle during long driving legs to break the monotony.

Vigorous ocean wake churning behind the whale-watching vessel.

After cruising along open ocean for a stretch and listening to the naturalist’s commentary, we finally spotted our first dolphin leaping across the Kuroshio current (N24.04233, E121.67848)!

Dolphin sighting on the open Pacific!

Our onboard guide explained that as dolphins age, accumulating scratches and scars gradually turn their skin whiter; spotting an entirely white dolphin signifies either an albino or a venerable elder. Soon, whole pods emerged—mothers swimming alongside calves, and lone wanderers riding the bow waves. The only minor disappointment was not encountering a sunfish (ocean sunfish / mola mola).

GPS satellite trajectory map recorded during the whale-watching cruise.

Docking back on land, we drove into Hualien City under blazing sunshine, sampled local snacks, browsed gift shops, and packed souvenirs into the trunk for our homeward journey. Traffic along the Suhua Highway was heavily congested, with tour buses and gravel trucks bottlenecking the narrow road, alongside erratic 4WD enthusiasts weaving impatiently. In my observations, many drivers who purchase aggressive 4WD rigs display little environmental courtesy; outside of churning up pristine mountain riverbeds, one wonders what purpose they truly serve.

Breathtaking coastal cliffs along the Suhua Highway.

Following an exhaustive drive, we finally returned to Tamsui. After concluding errands, unloading bags, and parking the car, our 3-day eastern expedition officially drew to a close. Setting aside traffic jams and physical exhaustion, the journey was a genuinely rejuvenating, relaxing, and memorable escape.

Trip Summary: Hualien & Taitung 3-Day Journey

• Travel Dates: June 24–26, 2005.
• Route Overview: Tamsui → Taipei → Yilan → Hualien → Taitung → Hualien → Taipei → Tamsui.

Complete GPS track map of the 3-day Hualien-Taitung road trip.

• Travelers: Mizuc, A-Zhao, Xiao-Hong, Bird Nest.
• Lodging: Over the Wall Garden (Hualien Homestay), Primitive Space (Taitung Homestay).
• Vehicle: Mizuc-Mobile (Hyundai Matrix).
• Total Distance Logged: 1,083.3 km.
• Elapsed Time: June 24, 2005, 06:30 to June 26, 2005, 23:19.
• Geocache Found: TA-YU.

Recommended Reading & Appendices:

1. 10 Essential Tips Before Joining a Marine Whale Watching Tour (With Case Studies from Wushi, Hualien, Chenggong, and Zamami Island, Okinawa)
2. Marine Ecology: Whale Tourism Resources and Cetacean Species of Taiwan.
3. First Draft Completed: June 26, 2005.